My Talent!!

Not saying that I had much, but this past week, it's all gone...
I feel like I can't climb. Exchange the ball for a chalkbag. . .
Who ever stole it for the Comp, please give it back.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exekMBu0NFo

Start it at 1:30. Thats the only explanation.

Let's all sing along!

As of my last post I was complaining about me and competing. Now I am complaining about not having anything to complain about.

Adam Henry and Joe Ortega rented a house in Chatt for the weekend. Perfect... Heading up with Joe in the morning. This will be my first time to Little Rock City, so I am excited to see the place and being in the "comp mode" I will either do really good, or really bad. Either way, I will have plenty of shit talking. Not to mention a warm bed to sleep in.

http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%253A%252F%252Fwww.vrbo.com%252F143599&h=f6f71b53d91694d698a3fb51ba356c07&ref=mf

Just got back from the Red on Sunday. Took a 9 night 10 day trip to find out that my endurance was bad! Fit for some places, but not the enduro routes up there. I mingled around going on an onsight spree and finding the more bouldery routes the Red has to offer.

Excited to really cut my teeth with On sighting, a technique that is (in my opinion) so impressive. I usually ask for beta, beg for beta. I don't have much time, so tell me what to do, kinda attitude. With the Onsight, you have to Rock Climb. It's killer. Of course I have OS routes that where pretty straight forward, and easier in the grade. But I had set my goals for 12d/13a onsight for this trip. Nailed it with 8 ball. . . fantastic route and a classic at the Red. Psyched.

I also had set a goal for 12, 12's. 6 had to be Onsight and they all had to be new. I believe I scampered away with only 11, but that was enough for me. On the other hand my goal was to do 5, 5.13's. Like I said, enduro is down. I chased after short classics like Paradise Lost 13b, and Golden Touch 13b. Both of those went 2nd go after a quick recon burn.

And did my anti style of a route Convicted 5.13a. It is a pumpy line full of decent slopers to a dirty little red point crux just below the chains. I fell there last year no less than 6 times the first day I tried it. Felt good to come back and do it 2nd go as well.

I also narrowly missed on two other great routes. Prometheus Unbound 5.13a and Table of Colors (direct) 5.13b. I fell on both where I shouldn't have, with Table being the last second of the last day. I fell with my hand inside the jug pocket!!!

The story goes on and on. Give you a ramblin quick recap, as it comes to my head.

Rode up with Leslie Warnock Friday, I had met Les about 3 times before that ride...

Ripped the biggest flapper ever on the first route of the first day. Awesome.

I told the Canadians allot of things Canadians don't need to know.

Les almost crushed a 13b, but got miserably defeated on a 12b! (haha Red River Gorge)

Les also got "weird" the last night of the trip as he made everyone around the fire sign his Atlas with there E-mails.

Through a Carabiner into the fire, Next day took it out to the Mother Load.... Todd Clark took a fall from the chains of Bohica onto it only to hear a loud pop and a new x-mas ornament and or paper weight was formed. (the biner exploded)

I watched Natalie cry the first day, then send her first 12a the 4th day... (maybe I should cry)

Brooks climbed more 5.12's than he probably ever has in his life. He had mad game on some of the harder stuff, but just no dice this trip. "It's not going anywhere Brooks."

Linda still hates me, but did let me stay in the campground. Todd let me stay in the cabin with him.

My Send Fuel ended up being x-mas tree cakes and honey buns. (Adam Ondra Tip)

What I'm getting at is I have never had a bad trip to the Red. Any bad trip to the red is better than any good trip at home??? You know what im saying.

See yall at LRC!

Caught up in the GAME!

The Triple Crown isn't a mystery to any climber in the South East. I've never heard any bad news about it, always run very smoothly. Here is the situation I'm in.

Rolling up to the first leg on the Triple Crown I knew climbing "advanced" would be a hard task. Being the first time to ever be in NC much less climbing a new area, 10 of my best would be proud. I feel like this mindset is what makes competition fun. I had tons of fun, executing moves in the best manner to save skin and energy. Ending up climbing harder than I ever thought.

Now, here we are at HP40 for the second comp. I have tons of the "advanced" problems wired. I will say I hadn't tried/sent any of them before these past 2 weekends. My chances of screwing up is as good as anyone. This isn't competing, this is winning, with out getting bumped.

Now look at the open category. A competition for me for sure, the guys who will win open will warm up on my projects. This isn't fun either.. But is that how the Advanced guys feel? To know you can't keep up with locals is enough to make me not want to spend the $60 to compete.

I hate the fact that I have to "Down Play" my climbing. Not trying my hardest, just climbing what I have to do to win, and not get bumped. A month ago climbing 1o v6-v8 at hp would have been laughable. It isn't like I have been running a circuit for the past 3 years, and now I wanna get some free gear.

If I win, I sandbagged.. If I lose, I should have done the problems I didn't want to do and get bumped. . . I don't know if I'm cut out for this climbing comp thing.

I'm rambling... What ever, I am going to HP to climb hard, talk shit, and have fun.

What is this cold you speak of?

First cold weekend climbing! I actually numbed out on routes Saturday! Felt close on what has turned into my main project. Brooks walked silverback with the worst beta, but strongest form.

Headed to Horse Pens Sunday morning to find the sun bright, temp in the 40's/50's, and the friction super sticky. Everyone was super motivated and trying there hardest. Like they had a secret, and no one else needed to know about it.

Hound Ears was a great experience to base bouldering on... I found out I can send at least 10 problems v7 and higher in a day. . Not to mention it was my first time to be at Hound Ears. So, now when I go to a local crag, I should have no problem to do the same EVERY time.

I agree with a Handy Cap given to the locals at each crags. Like I said, 10 of my best shouldn't be hard to repeat since it's 45 min from the house. I wouldn't want to compete if I went across the country to compete, and know I was going to lose to the locals. I know on routes, that I have dialed, I can climb and feel absolute NO fatigue....

I don't know where this was going. But here is a video of me doing Cadillac Thrills at HP40. This thing is really good, and was a big feat for me. Last January I couldn't do the first move, I haven't been back on it until yesterday. Went down in the fastest manner of 3 tries!!! Psyched..
http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DCzrxNJkX6zE&h=031301dc4c8c08b458ea0dcf7bba48a4
Thanks Chris for the video!

Last Call

Where to start....



Huge weekend! Big props for everyone coming out, this was my first Triple Crown to attend.. I see why this event is the biggest in the States.


Thursday
Me and Joe head out around 4:00... One missed turn and allot of shit talking later, we arrive at Boone... Where "Last Call" means last call.



After catching a few hours of desperate sleep, Brooks and Natalie arrive to show us our home for the weekend. It just so happens Natalies sis lives in Boone...




Friday
Coffee, food, and CSI... I know

Early registration leads to an awesome feast of bbq and shrimp. After the feast we attend more shit talking, to a whole lot of nervous pretending to be asleep sleep....

Saturday

Wait in this huge line of hippies to hop on a hopefully rental van with the most psyched guy I may have ever met. Hearing the F word from this guy was insperational.


After the stratigicly packed uhaul truck unloads the pads, we treck up hill to only stand in a longer line with more hippies. With no game plan in mind, the crowd splits...



The Hound Ears map did me about as good as a guy translating French in Russian.


Me and Joe followed the crowd only to find the HUGE boulder field that was hidden behind the Billion dollar mansions... The first boulder we saw was the fuc yo boulder. I didn't care what the rest of Hound Ears was like, I was satisfied.



4 min of warming up I found out that I don't do so well infront of 400 people. I wouldn't try the v0, because I was afriad of failing! Hard to explain, but I couldn't just climb.



I see the pads stacked 10 deep infront of this highball... After fighting through the 12 guys with chalk pots, I finaly get to see the label. Jaws 2 Direct V8. Still in the overwhelmed phase, I hop on and find my self at the top with ease! PSYCHED! First boulder problem of the day and a solid flash for me. Topping out and running around with a big grin, I have to compose my grin to a minor smirk.

Directly behind Jaws was Fuc Yo v9... My grin quickly turned into an O face as I watched 5 different guys flash the low start The Crusher v10. Very impressive.



Building up the guts to hop on the train, I get on with the worst style and fall on the last move to the lip. Next go I find my self scared to death as im cowardly screaming "GOOD SPOT!!" I fight my way to the top. 20 minutes I had done more than I thought I would throughout the whole day.













The rest of the day flew by, only to find my self 3 climbs away from filling my 10. I end up running down the hill with one of the judges "Andrew" and climbing all 3 within 20 minutes. A proud feat at the end of the day. Not to mention the up hill run to be the LAST one to turn in my card...


Good time to mention as I added my card (in the fastest manner) I hit the wrong button and just wrote down a number that I thought was close to what I had. Around 7000 points. I still have no clue what my total is. . . .

Finishing the night off with Quiznoe's, EZB rapping, and one of the best bands of all time... I was ready for bed.



Sunday


After the long drive home recapping all the what if's... It was one hell of a trip. A trip I hope to
make every year.










Quick recap:



CSI NY


Sleeping in the Pussy Palace

Joe breakes crux hold on Fuc Yo

Flashed more problems than I did all last season

EZB rapped


Lead singer beat his head with a chalk pot


Winner in Advanced did 3 v9's and didn't get bumped

Nursing 101 on the drive home










Work came early the next morning...


I will see you at Horse Pens!!!!!!!!







PSYCHED

Agree to Disagree

Latest controversy in the climbing community is secret stash crags.

Some of these crags have been closed for 20+ years (almost as old as me) and people have been climbing here for those 20+ years.

Take Chattanooga for example. I can name more closed crags than I can open. . . Not to mention there are more climbers in Chatt than all of Alabama. I guess before they hand over the title you have to take an ethics class on access sensitive areas.

I seem to be number one for pissing people off. Maybe because i'm young and an easy target. Or I come off as some sort of elitist who really doesn't know shit about climbing, but sports an ego on his shoulder. What ever the case is, I don't want to be the guy who comes in and messes things up for people. But I will ask questions. How do you learn the proper if no one teaches you?

If some of these gray areas in AL where in Chatt, they would be no question climbing spots. It amazes me the amount of people who start confrontation here. Maybe it is since we sport such a small group of people, there are no real way out of hiding. Small town hype, that everyone knows everyone (and what they're doing).

The number one answer I get, is to keep your mouth closed. Never mention it. What these guys probably aren't realizing, they are getting OLD! If these ethics keep on, the places will be deserted. Left to only the old guys who wouldn't pass on the knowledge to others, in fear of the places having traffic.

BY NO MEANS am I trying to start an argument with anyone! Only logical questions that I would love to get a rational answer for.

QUESTION:

How can Chatt have 4000 climbers compared to our 100, and not have HALF of the problems?

Home Sweet Home!!

I started out camping in a old walmart tent in the back yard when I was about 8 or 9.. I took a long break before I found climbing. Then, I purchased one of the killer hammocks at the outdoor store that I thought was the best thing ever invented. The cold nights and back aches soon took me back to the store to buy a nice 4 person tent.

While the tent was nice, cozy, and very dry... I found out that tents get cold, and the rain doesn't care if your trying to pack up your tent or not.

I recall one weekend when i was camping at Sand Rock and the rain came during the night, all night.. Hard rain, thunder, and of course lightning. That rain continued through out the next day. Being an in experienced camper, I had zero rain gear. You know the south only sells cotton..

So, as the rain grows, so does our anger. Soon enough I manned up. I got out and started breaking down the wet, muddy tent. In a down pour of nasty, cold rain. Finishing up with a nice slip into the mud and packing my keys up into the tent. I was a not so happy camper driving home.

That was the last night I slept in a tent!

The next weekend came the craggin wagon. I bought a hard shell camper to go on my truck. Within a few weeks, I had a respectable crashing spot under anyones terms. The craggin wagon stood up to all types of weather and events. I spent two months in Kentucky sleeping out of it half of the time. Life was good!

And now, im sitting in my new trailer! I purchased a 26ft dutchmen travel trailer. This thing has everything and more for me. 3 beds, shower and toilet, microwave, stove and oven.. not to mention plenty of room for EVERYTHING.

Need less to say I found out along time ago that I climbed better with a good nights sleep. I keep moving up in terms of comfort, but hell, it's raining right now. All I gotta do is go to sleep! I will do a full spray down on the trailer later this week. Pictures of everything soon to come. I know it will never be as cool as The Hippy Van, but one can only dream!

I will see you guys out there.. probably with a full stomach of bacon, eggs, and biscuits.. a wet head from a HOT shower.. and watching dosage v on the flat screen to get pyched... And hell yea im braggin, IM PSYCHED!!!

Old Rusty Ethics

I would say 70% of the first bolts in the canyon are in bad shape, rusted, stripped, loose..etc. That means 7 out of 10 routes have ATLEAST a bad FIRST bolt on it. Thats usually the one noticed the most, because of the stickclip nature. When I was talking to the MAN about the stories of him and others bolting these routes, we both realized that 90% of the routes where bolted around 10-15 years ago.

I was asking how hard it was to go through the channels and get the permit for replacing some old bolts. He assured me that with his permission I wouldn't have a problem getting out there. He didn't understand why I wanted to rebolt..

He said things like:

People will not give you the respect you think you will get for bolting.

The canyon doesn't get enough traffic to matter. The bolts are fine.

Don't waste your time.

When I started thinking about all this I soon realized that there is NO ONE out there doing this service. Refrase, no one in the new age climbers. I am not taking any respect away from the select few older guys who still make the journey with a hook and gun. It's like the baby boomers of the climbing generation. The only pattern I see differently is people putting up hard routes, not rebolting the ones they know they will not fall on.

The number of people climbing in the canyon is rising as well as the risk of people getting hurt. With a decade of old steele hanging from the canyons sand stone, we need to make a change, so we will become the next generation of people who take care of these places. If we don't who will?

The most beautiful name in the world...

The epic I find my self sifting through weekly, is routes and there names. Most of the places I climb at have no guide book, no real concensious on the grade, and mostly NO NAME!! I find my self describing routes by trees, streaks, features, spiders.... Why not a name??? Especially some of the routes that would be 4 or 5 stars anywhere, have a name like "the warmup" "the 12""the route on the arete"... If there is a named route on the wall, it's the only reference point.. Everyone has ?????? on the 8a card....

What's the ethics? Can you name a route that you didn't do? For example, the past two routes I have been on at Adam's have been stellar. . If you ask Adam what there called, he will probably say something like " Capt Dick Head, put that on your 8a".... He doesn't name ANYTHING! The way Hp40 problems got named can make a grown man cry. Does the name even matter to people. Is it just a way to decipher a route? Or do people really put meaning in the name...

ETHICS? I named a route that I did the other day, for the sheer fact that it wouldn't get named if I hadn't. In this case, we think I was the first to do it. But who knows? It deff takes away from a route if it doesn't have its own name.

Question: Can you name a route that you didn't get the First Ascent on? (with the respect that the equipper didn't and wouldn't name it).

Blitching

I have:
A new class schedule to get use to.
Started to get a new job.
Instead took a raise.
Climbing Gym 20 min from the house.
Triple crown coming up.
GOOD TEMPS starting next month.
Nursing school around the corner.
Driving school to attend.
Chiggers on my ass.

And I all I want to do is Rock Climb......



Gotta complain somewhere.

Soon

Posts that need to be posted:
Bouldering tick list
8a or no 8a
Gear Reviews (Ropes especially)
Southern Ethics
First Ave Rocks Climbing Gym Update
Is competing ok?

Boring Tick List

Routes:
Little River Canyon

Unshackled 13b
Unshackled the Movie 13c
Stealth 13a
Decivor 13c/d
Caliban 13b
Delusions 13a
Man Show 13d
Southern Comfort 14a

Red River Gorge

Convicted 13a
The Force 13a
Spank 13a
Table of Colors 13a
Prometheus Unbound 13a
Hoofmaker 13a
40 Oz 13a
Appalachian Spring 13a
Name Dropper 13a
Bohica 13b
Golden Touch 13b
Dirty Smelly Hippie 13b
Paradise Lost 13b
Flour Power 13b
Calm Like a Bomb 13b
No Redemption 13b
Dracula 04' 13b
Golden Boy 13b
Kaleidoscope 13c
White Mans Overbite 13c
Black Gold 13c
Ultra Perm 13d
Nagypapa 13d

Foster Falls

Darkie the Bum Beast 13a
Gas Chamber 13a
Abacus 13a
Squeeze the Trigga 13a
Kill or Be Killed 13b
The Big Empty 13c

The New

Apollo Reed 13a
Super Mario 13a
Blood Raid 13a
Mercy Seat 13a
Toy Maker 13a
The Pod 13b
Just Send It 13b
Eye of Mordor 13b

Chatt Town

Necrophilia 13a
Karma 13a
Chop Shop 13a
Puff the Magic Dragon 13a
Born on the 4th of July 13a
Message 13a
Burn 13a
Huecool Senior 13a


Total:
13a=28
13b=15
13c=5
13d=4
14a=1


A SERIOUS tick list... I need to start training.. and diet, and maybe throw up inbetween climbs. Any suggestions?
( I don't know anything about 69% of these routes)
Let me know what to add or erase!

Rebolted "deciever", the far left line at Unshackled. The route looks good! Small holds on overhanging face for about 50'. Hopefully put pictures of the send/working it.

Dodgy

My plans change more than the First Ave Rocks grand opening date does.

My ultimate goal in life for the past month was to find a dodge sprinter (RV style) and buy that hoe. Sell the truck, and drive a livable van around..

After talking to brooks we decided the best rig for me to get is a cab over camper. Mind you these things are not your grand pa Joe's rig. These have full on kitchens (stove, sink, oven) Tons of storage, sleeps 6, and I still get to keep my truck. The prices are almost a quarter of what I was originally planning on spending. That means I get to buy a NEW truck. 4 door Diesel if you please. Rap your mind around this, pull up to the camping spot, push a button that lifts the camper of the truck, and drive off. They are fully stable and self contained to leave sitting with out the truck.

Further, I have a daily driver (not a van) and I can leave it off the truck for gas milage during the week and hook it up on the weekend. READY TO GO! Keeping my truck for the time being, it will haul it around just fine, not to mention it's paid for...

For the weekend, taking the old lady out to Sand Rock for some easier climbing. Plan on giving a run on Champagne Jam late Sat.. Sunday morning making a trip over to the canyon and gonna rebolt a SURE ENOUGH CLASSIC, let me explain the de-lima.

The far left line at unshackled was originally bolted by Jerry Roberts, soon after he left the project for other lines as he believes some one had "comfortized" a hold. No drilling or chipping was done on this rig, just a little shaving of a razor sharp edge. This happens ALL the time, but who is gonna know? The guy bolting it shaves down some sharp rock to make it more user friendly. Agree or disagree, its gonna always happen.

So, here comes a friend of mine Bently Bracket who gets the FA on the rig. Sends it liked it, he moved on in Bently style. With the FA he decided to name it "deceiver 13c". Later in time Greg Kottkamp thought he would get the FA (not knowing the route was previously done) he did it adding a different more bouldery start and decided to call it "Back in the Day 14a".

Fast forward to now, and we have a great route in a great location with a wall full of classic lines and here lies "deceiver/back in the day" with two different grades, and rusty ass bolts. If you ask me what I'm going to do about it, I will tell you it will be rebolted soon. Weather or not I can climb the thing will be a different story, but it looks excellent, some of the best quality sand stone around, and like I said CLASSIC.

Im calling the rig "Deceiver" Bently did it first and weather or not the different start bumps it to 14a or not, I will refer to it as deceiver. The grade will soon enough be disclosed as it will be climbed on A LOT after the rebolting happens.

Down side, I have to do MORE work, less climbing. Also, add another project to do around here!

Follow the leader

A few months ago when I started this rig, I claimed to be different, I promised to never stop writing... I wouldn't follow the same path the other "bloggers" took. I was different. . . . 

Then I thought of all the hours I have been working, the trips out of town, the incredible it's not even summer yet spring time in alabama type temps of 95 with the index at 106!!! 

So to all that have been giving me shit about not updating, the time has come. I will be at the beach for the next 6 days, and I will be able to gather my thoughts in an extremely cold A/C room looking through my tinted glass down at the beach. 

I need rest, working in this heat for 50-60 hours a week and then trying to help the gym a few days a week, then leaving out Friday nights and or Saturday mornings heading to the Canyon for a hard working weekend. . . Only to be rushing home LATE Sunday night to make it to work by 6:30am.... blah,blah,blah I know broox

Good news that is sporadically coming to me;

Found out that I have bolts, drill, bits, and rock at my disposal. I then talked to the Southern Legend and wouldn't you know he already has this (soon to be classic) line at his house. He mentioned the word Stellar a few times, so it's gotta be good. 

I really want to start spending some time rebolting and bolting some lines. The longer I climb the more respect I have for the guys who go unknown bolting allot of these climbs we get to go enjoy. 

I recently made my mind up that I will be an owner of an Sprinter RV. It's gonna be a daily driver, (kinda sucks) but they are to expensive to own another car, even an ole junker. The plus side to things, I will USE it all the time, everything is ready to go. 23-30 MPG!!! A full on kitchen... sink, stove, microwave, coffe maker... the works. A bathroom with a shower, I probably wont keep this function, unless it is really nice. I don't plan on spending the money for a RV park as it will be self contained, meaning, generator, power inverter, and two of the best 12v a man can possess. Seating for 5 and comfy sleeping for 3. Room for 5! Super excited about being able to pull up and sleep. No unloading tubs, re arranging food bins, hooking up tanks un hooking, washing dishes out of another dish (rap your mind around that). Lazy, yes. I have slept in a tent once since I bought my camper last January. Keep you updated on the Sprinter situation. 

The only bad news to the sprinter is, I will not be making my 3 or 4 week climbing trip in July and early August. I need the cash for the car... Plenty of weekend trips around the southeast will do me just fine, not to mention FAR UNIT! The gym is almost open and open enough for me to hang out there most Tues and Thurs ... and Fridays... well shit allot. Psyched to get strong! 

Probably end it around here. Do my best to get back on track. It was easy when I started, I wasn't working, just in school and on the computer allot.

SUCCESS!!

Beg, borrow, and Steele was a huge success... Psyched to see that many people there and to raise over 1400 dollars. Big thanks to everyone who showed up! 

Pictures and more CRAZY stories to come....

Updates

Beg, Borrow, and Steele is coming along smoothly (knock on wood). The unique thing about this fundraiser, it's handled by some local climbers. We all are playing this by ear, and Im psyched to see the community come together like it is. We are all donating swag, sending e-mails to vendors, and using a little saved up cash to pay for the materials. We decided to not ask the SCC to rein-burst us on any of the money for all the extras; food, drinks, desserts, utensils, etc... It adds up!  As Brooks said, it's hard to judge how much is to much. We have lost our thought process as a customer, and don't know the best way to go about the money with the event. Our price as of right now is 15 to get in for FREE food, beer, and camping. Not to mention all the swag and activities that will last the entire day. 

The way I am explaining it is... 

You go to Horse Pens 40 for a night it's 12 bucks. With three more dollars, you get all the extras! We are all close to our dirtbagging roots, but come on guys. This is a fundraiser!!! RAISE THE FUNDS!!

Beg, Borrow, and STEELE!!!

We all know the SCC has a huge impact on the southeast's climbing. This small grass roots organization has grown from working out of  a shoe box to BUYING crags! Yellow Bluff was purchased in April, and is now climber owned, climber managed. The new motto is "If we own it, they can't take it away." 

This attitude has brought us to a new crag. Steele! With the SCC doing all they can to get Steele underway, they need us to support them by donations. 

That brings us to Beg, Borrow, and Steele... (thanks Brooks) A party at Adam Henry's house.  We decided that not every weekend warrior likes to spend time on trail days. But most would like to spend it out at AHSL's house climbing, drinking, eating, and doing some fun shit. All while raising a ton of money for Steele. 

It's going to be on Saturday June 6th. Adam said EVERYONE is welcome, do not feel intimidated to come. Camping is available but not promoted.. We will probably be playing beer pong with Sweet Water... So, you might want to bring a tent. Guaranteed a good time. 

Parking is slim, very slim. CARPOOL, we are going to have to have people meet and ride together. 

Final thoughts: 

We are asking for you to come out to Adam Henry's...(Pretty much a huge secret for 6 years)

Drink tons of beer... (Good stuff, Sweet Water)

Raise money for a crag... (Both bouldering and GREAT routes)

All while hanging out and meeting some great people... (Shit talking to the extreme!)

Come show everyone we know how to party!

We will have more info for you with in the next week. 

GET PSYCHED!!!!

The rain will wash away

New River Rendezvous

Here is a good example of what to expect!

Battle of the Blogs

I can't believe all the people who have blogs, but never update! And then every post they do have starts off with; I know its been forever since I updated.... Well YEA! It's been 4 months! I plan on updating a few times a week. If nothing happens, I will tell you about how nothing has happened. 

I feel like the blogs are the new thing. Facebook, Myspace, and the new Twitter, (what the hell is up with that?) all paved the way for everyone to have blogs. . . 

Feel free to post about what ever!

Sunny Side Up

The heat is here! 88 degrees and sunny was the forecast for this weekend. Now its all night time bouldering, chasing shade for routes, and lots of swimming. I get the most motivation this time of the year. I know when it's snowing and freezing out, everybody is sooo excited. Not me, I enjoy the hot humid route climbing. Getting psyched meeting all these new people. Getting offers to go on allot of trips, checking out new crags with new styles seems like a huge part of getting strong! Starting to feel good on routes, only lacking power endurance. The hard moves at the anchors usually spit me off.. My biggest worry about the summer of sweaty routes, is loosing my POWER! Power seems to be way harder to gain then stamina. . . 

With that said, First Avenue Rocks is on its way to be a BAD ASS gym! Some pictures have gone up, and the boulders are huge. They are putting in way more effort/style on this place than I ever imagined. Imagine a gym, close to your home... Now, add in the best looking boulders, full padded floor, Yoga, cool climbing scene... add in Adam Henry with more stories than your body can handle, and you have First Ave Rocks. . . 

Kids gonna get way stronger way faster. I have never trained, not even once. Im gonna ease into it, but, I am hoping it will make a big difference. Relating climbing to all other sports I have done i.e. baseball, basketball, soccer... You practice, and practice hard. You do different things so you are fit, and ready. Mentally as well as physically. If nothing else, training will do a mental game with me. I will be able to tie in and think to myself, I have been working hard! I can do this! A little confidence can go along way for me. 

First Ave is opening up soon, early June is the hope date. Get your money out there and support these guys. Working hard for us, show up, keep the south strong! 

No where I would rather be

I absolutely love the south. The people, food, atmosphere, and the climbing! The Canyon has to be the most relaxing place to hang out at. It's amazing to me that it is in Alabama.

The dive!

After spending all my time on the computer reading other peoples blogs, I decided to make my own. A part of me feels like you have to (be somebody) to have a blog. I guess you only have to (be somebody) to make one. Who says anyone has to look at it?