July 20, 2009

Rebolted "deciever", the far left line at Unshackled. The route looks good! Small holds on overhanging face for about 50'. Hopefully put pictures of the send/working it.

July 10, 2009


My plans change more than the First Ave Rocks grand opening date does.

My ultimate goal in life for the past month was to find a dodge sprinter (RV style) and buy that hoe. Sell the truck, and drive a livable van around..

After talking to brooks we decided the best rig for me to get is a cab over camper. Mind you these things are not your grand pa Joe's rig. These have full on kitchens (stove, sink, oven) Tons of storage, sleeps 6, and I still get to keep my truck. The prices are almost a quarter of what I was originally planning on spending. That means I get to buy a NEW truck. 4 door Diesel if you please. Rap your mind around this, pull up to the camping spot, push a button that lifts the camper of the truck, and drive off. They are fully stable and self contained to leave sitting with out the truck.

Further, I have a daily driver (not a van) and I can leave it off the truck for gas milage during the week and hook it up on the weekend. READY TO GO! Keeping my truck for the time being, it will haul it around just fine, not to mention it's paid for...

For the weekend, taking the old lady out to Sand Rock for some easier climbing. Plan on giving a run on Champagne Jam late Sat.. Sunday morning making a trip over to the canyon and gonna rebolt a SURE ENOUGH CLASSIC, let me explain the de-lima.

The far left line at unshackled was originally bolted by Jerry Roberts, soon after he left the project for other lines as he believes some one had "comfortized" a hold. No drilling or chipping was done on this rig, just a little shaving of a razor sharp edge. This happens ALL the time, but who is gonna know? The guy bolting it shaves down some sharp rock to make it more user friendly. Agree or disagree, its gonna always happen.

So, here comes a friend of mine Bently Bracket who gets the FA on the rig. Sends it liked it, he moved on in Bently style. With the FA he decided to name it "deceiver 13c". Later in time Greg Kottkamp thought he would get the FA (not knowing the route was previously done) he did it adding a different more bouldery start and decided to call it "Back in the Day 14a".

Fast forward to now, and we have a great route in a great location with a wall full of classic lines and here lies "deceiver/back in the day" with two different grades, and rusty ass bolts. If you ask me what I'm going to do about it, I will tell you it will be rebolted soon. Weather or not I can climb the thing will be a different story, but it looks excellent, some of the best quality sand stone around, and like I said CLASSIC.

Im calling the rig "Deceiver" Bently did it first and weather or not the different start bumps it to 14a or not, I will refer to it as deceiver. The grade will soon enough be disclosed as it will be climbed on A LOT after the rebolting happens.

Down side, I have to do MORE work, less climbing. Also, add another project to do around here!