December 9, 2009

My Talent!!

Not saying that I had much, but this past week, it's all gone...
I feel like I can't climb. Exchange the ball for a chalkbag. . .
Who ever stole it for the Comp, please give it back.

Start it at 1:30. Thats the only explanation.

December 3, 2009

Let's all sing along!

As of my last post I was complaining about me and competing. Now I am complaining about not having anything to complain about.

Adam Henry and Joe Ortega rented a house in Chatt for the weekend. Perfect... Heading up with Joe in the morning. This will be my first time to Little Rock City, so I am excited to see the place and being in the "comp mode" I will either do really good, or really bad. Either way, I will have plenty of shit talking. Not to mention a warm bed to sleep in.

Just got back from the Red on Sunday. Took a 9 night 10 day trip to find out that my endurance was bad! Fit for some places, but not the enduro routes up there. I mingled around going on an onsight spree and finding the more bouldery routes the Red has to offer.

Excited to really cut my teeth with On sighting, a technique that is (in my opinion) so impressive. I usually ask for beta, beg for beta. I don't have much time, so tell me what to do, kinda attitude. With the Onsight, you have to Rock Climb. It's killer. Of course I have OS routes that where pretty straight forward, and easier in the grade. But I had set my goals for 12d/13a onsight for this trip. Nailed it with 8 ball. . . fantastic route and a classic at the Red. Psyched.

I also had set a goal for 12, 12's. 6 had to be Onsight and they all had to be new. I believe I scampered away with only 11, but that was enough for me. On the other hand my goal was to do 5, 5.13's. Like I said, enduro is down. I chased after short classics like Paradise Lost 13b, and Golden Touch 13b. Both of those went 2nd go after a quick recon burn.

And did my anti style of a route Convicted 5.13a. It is a pumpy line full of decent slopers to a dirty little red point crux just below the chains. I fell there last year no less than 6 times the first day I tried it. Felt good to come back and do it 2nd go as well.

I also narrowly missed on two other great routes. Prometheus Unbound 5.13a and Table of Colors (direct) 5.13b. I fell on both where I shouldn't have, with Table being the last second of the last day. I fell with my hand inside the jug pocket!!!

The story goes on and on. Give you a ramblin quick recap, as it comes to my head.

Rode up with Leslie Warnock Friday, I had met Les about 3 times before that ride...

Ripped the biggest flapper ever on the first route of the first day. Awesome.

I told the Canadians allot of things Canadians don't need to know.

Les almost crushed a 13b, but got miserably defeated on a 12b! (haha Red River Gorge)
Les also got "weird" the last night of the trip as he made everyone around the fire sign his Atlas with there E-mails.

Through a Carabiner into the fire, Next day took it out to the Mother Load.... Todd Clark took a fall from the chains of Bohica onto it only to hear a loud pop and a new x-mas ornament and or paper weight was formed. (the biner exploded)

I watched Natalie cry the first day, then send her first 12a the 4th day... (maybe I should cry)

Brooks climbed more 5.12's than he probably ever has in his life. He had mad game on some of the harder stuff, but just no dice this trip. "It's not going anywhere Brooks."

Linda still hates me, but did let me stay in the campground. Todd let me stay in the cabin with him.

My Send Fuel ended up being x-mas tree cakes and honey buns. (Adam Ondra Tip)

What I'm getting at is I have never had a bad trip to the Red. Any bad trip to the red is better than any good trip at home??? You know what im saying.

See yall at LRC!