October 19, 2009

What is this cold you speak of?

First cold weekend climbing! I actually numbed out on routes Saturday! Felt close on what has turned into my main project. Brooks walked silverback with the worst beta, but strongest form.

Headed to Horse Pens Sunday morning to find the sun bright, temp in the 40's/50's, and the friction super sticky. Everyone was super motivated and trying there hardest. Like they had a secret, and no one else needed to know about it.

Hound Ears was a great experience to base bouldering on... I found out I can send at least 10 problems v7 and higher in a day. . Not to mention it was my first time to be at Hound Ears. So, now when I go to a local crag, I should have no problem to do the same EVERY time.

I agree with a Handy Cap given to the locals at each crags. Like I said, 10 of my best shouldn't be hard to repeat since it's 45 min from the house. I wouldn't want to compete if I went across the country to compete, and know I was going to lose to the locals. I know on routes, that I have dialed, I can climb and feel absolute NO fatigue....

I don't know where this was going. But here is a video of me doing Cadillac Thrills at HP40. This thing is really good, and was a big feat for me. Last January I couldn't do the first move, I haven't been back on it until yesterday. Went down in the fastest manner of 3 tries!!! Psyched..
Thanks Chris for the video!

October 7, 2009

Last Call

Where to start....

Huge weekend! Big props for everyone coming out, this was my first Triple Crown to attend.. I see why this event is the biggest in the States.

Me and Joe head out around 4:00... One missed turn and allot of shit talking later, we arrive at Boone... Where "Last Call" means last call.

After catching a few hours of desperate sleep, Brooks and Natalie arrive to show us our home for the weekend. It just so happens Natalies sis lives in Boone...

Coffee, food, and CSI... I know

Early registration leads to an awesome feast of bbq and shrimp. After the feast we attend more shit talking, to a whole lot of nervous pretending to be asleep sleep....


Wait in this huge line of hippies to hop on a hopefully rental van with the most psyched guy I may have ever met. Hearing the F word from this guy was insperational.

After the stratigicly packed uhaul truck unloads the pads, we treck up hill to only stand in a longer line with more hippies. With no game plan in mind, the crowd splits...

The Hound Ears map did me about as good as a guy translating French in Russian.

Me and Joe followed the crowd only to find the HUGE boulder field that was hidden behind the Billion dollar mansions... The first boulder we saw was the fuc yo boulder. I didn't care what the rest of Hound Ears was like, I was satisfied.

4 min of warming up I found out that I don't do so well infront of 400 people. I wouldn't try the v0, because I was afriad of failing! Hard to explain, but I couldn't just climb.

I see the pads stacked 10 deep infront of this highball... After fighting through the 12 guys with chalk pots, I finaly get to see the label. Jaws 2 Direct V8. Still in the overwhelmed phase, I hop on and find my self at the top with ease! PSYCHED! First boulder problem of the day and a solid flash for me. Topping out and running around with a big grin, I have to compose my grin to a minor smirk.

Directly behind Jaws was Fuc Yo v9... My grin quickly turned into an O face as I watched 5 different guys flash the low start The Crusher v10. Very impressive.

Building up the guts to hop on the train, I get on with the worst style and fall on the last move to the lip. Next go I find my self scared to death as im cowardly screaming "GOOD SPOT!!" I fight my way to the top. 20 minutes I had done more than I thought I would throughout the whole day.

The rest of the day flew by, only to find my self 3 climbs away from filling my 10. I end up running down the hill with one of the judges "Andrew" and climbing all 3 within 20 minutes. A proud feat at the end of the day. Not to mention the up hill run to be the LAST one to turn in my card...

Good time to mention as I added my card (in the fastest manner) I hit the wrong button and just wrote down a number that I thought was close to what I had. Around 7000 points. I still have no clue what my total is. . . .

Finishing the night off with Quiznoe's, EZB rapping, and one of the best bands of all time... I was ready for bed.


After the long drive home recapping all the what if's... It was one hell of a trip. A trip I hope to
make every year.

Quick recap:


Sleeping in the Pussy Palace

Joe breakes crux hold on Fuc Yo

Flashed more problems than I did all last season

EZB rapped

Lead singer beat his head with a chalk pot

Winner in Advanced did 3 v9's and didn't get bumped

Nursing 101 on the drive home

Work came early the next morning...

I will see you at Horse Pens!!!!!!!!