August 28, 2009

The most beautiful name in the world...

The epic I find my self sifting through weekly, is routes and there names. Most of the places I climb at have no guide book, no real concensious on the grade, and mostly NO NAME!! I find my self describing routes by trees, streaks, features, spiders.... Why not a name??? Especially some of the routes that would be 4 or 5 stars anywhere, have a name like "the warmup" "the 12""the route on the arete"... If there is a named route on the wall, it's the only reference point.. Everyone has ?????? on the 8a card....

What's the ethics? Can you name a route that you didn't do? For example, the past two routes I have been on at Adam's have been stellar. . If you ask Adam what there called, he will probably say something like " Capt Dick Head, put that on your 8a".... He doesn't name ANYTHING! The way Hp40 problems got named can make a grown man cry. Does the name even matter to people. Is it just a way to decipher a route? Or do people really put meaning in the name...

ETHICS? I named a route that I did the other day, for the sheer fact that it wouldn't get named if I hadn't. In this case, we think I was the first to do it. But who knows? It deff takes away from a route if it doesn't have its own name.

Question: Can you name a route that you didn't get the First Ascent on? (with the respect that the equipper didn't and wouldn't name it).


I have:
A new class schedule to get use to.
Started to get a new job.
Instead took a raise.
Climbing Gym 20 min from the house.
Triple crown coming up.
GOOD TEMPS starting next month.
Nursing school around the corner.
Driving school to attend.
Chiggers on my ass.

And I all I want to do is Rock Climb......

Gotta complain somewhere.

August 17, 2009


Posts that need to be posted:
Bouldering tick list
8a or no 8a
Gear Reviews (Ropes especially)
Southern Ethics
First Ave Rocks Climbing Gym Update
Is competing ok?

August 10, 2009

Boring Tick List

Little River Canyon

Unshackled 13b
Unshackled the Movie 13c
Stealth 13a
Decivor 13c/d
Caliban 13b
Delusions 13a
Man Show 13d
Southern Comfort 14a

Red River Gorge

Convicted 13a
The Force 13a
Spank 13a
Table of Colors 13a
Prometheus Unbound 13a
Hoofmaker 13a
40 Oz 13a
Appalachian Spring 13a
Name Dropper 13a
Bohica 13b
Golden Touch 13b
Dirty Smelly Hippie 13b
Paradise Lost 13b
Flour Power 13b
Calm Like a Bomb 13b
No Redemption 13b
Dracula 04' 13b
Golden Boy 13b
Kaleidoscope 13c
White Mans Overbite 13c
Black Gold 13c
Ultra Perm 13d
Nagypapa 13d

Foster Falls

Darkie the Bum Beast 13a
Gas Chamber 13a
Abacus 13a
Squeeze the Trigga 13a
Kill or Be Killed 13b
The Big Empty 13c

The New

Apollo Reed 13a
Super Mario 13a
Blood Raid 13a
Mercy Seat 13a
Toy Maker 13a
The Pod 13b
Just Send It 13b
Eye of Mordor 13b

Chatt Town

Necrophilia 13a
Karma 13a
Chop Shop 13a
Puff the Magic Dragon 13a
Born on the 4th of July 13a
Message 13a
Burn 13a
Huecool Senior 13a


A SERIOUS tick list... I need to start training.. and diet, and maybe throw up inbetween climbs. Any suggestions?
( I don't know anything about 69% of these routes)
Let me know what to add or erase!