Blitching

I have:
A new class schedule to get use to.
Started to get a new job.
Instead took a raise.
Climbing Gym 20 min from the house.
Triple crown coming up.
GOOD TEMPS starting next month.
Nursing school around the corner.
Driving school to attend.
Chiggers on my ass.

And I all I want to do is Rock Climb......



Gotta complain somewhere.

Soon

Posts that need to be posted:
Bouldering tick list
8a or no 8a
Gear Reviews (Ropes especially)
Southern Ethics
First Ave Rocks Climbing Gym Update
Is competing ok?

Boring Tick List

Routes:
Little River Canyon

Unshackled 13b
Unshackled the Movie 13c
Stealth 13a
Decivor 13c/d
Caliban 13b
Delusions 13a
Man Show 13d
Southern Comfort 14a

Red River Gorge

Convicted 13a
The Force 13a
Spank 13a
Table of Colors 13a
Prometheus Unbound 13a
Hoofmaker 13a
40 Oz 13a
Appalachian Spring 13a
Name Dropper 13a
Bohica 13b
Golden Touch 13b
Dirty Smelly Hippie 13b
Paradise Lost 13b
Flour Power 13b
Calm Like a Bomb 13b
No Redemption 13b
Dracula 04' 13b
Golden Boy 13b
Kaleidoscope 13c
White Mans Overbite 13c
Black Gold 13c
Ultra Perm 13d
Nagypapa 13d

Foster Falls

Darkie the Bum Beast 13a
Gas Chamber 13a
Abacus 13a
Squeeze the Trigga 13a
Kill or Be Killed 13b
The Big Empty 13c

The New

Apollo Reed 13a
Super Mario 13a
Blood Raid 13a
Mercy Seat 13a
Toy Maker 13a
The Pod 13b
Just Send It 13b
Eye of Mordor 13b

Chatt Town

Necrophilia 13a
Karma 13a
Chop Shop 13a
Puff the Magic Dragon 13a
Born on the 4th of July 13a
Message 13a
Burn 13a
Huecool Senior 13a


Total:
13a=28
13b=15
13c=5
13d=4
14a=1


A SERIOUS tick list... I need to start training.. and diet, and maybe throw up inbetween climbs. Any suggestions?
( I don't know anything about 69% of these routes)
Let me know what to add or erase!

Rebolted "deciever", the far left line at Unshackled. The route looks good! Small holds on overhanging face for about 50'. Hopefully put pictures of the send/working it.

Dodgy

My plans change more than the First Ave Rocks grand opening date does.

My ultimate goal in life for the past month was to find a dodge sprinter (RV style) and buy that hoe. Sell the truck, and drive a livable van around..

After talking to brooks we decided the best rig for me to get is a cab over camper. Mind you these things are not your grand pa Joe's rig. These have full on kitchens (stove, sink, oven) Tons of storage, sleeps 6, and I still get to keep my truck. The prices are almost a quarter of what I was originally planning on spending. That means I get to buy a NEW truck. 4 door Diesel if you please. Rap your mind around this, pull up to the camping spot, push a button that lifts the camper of the truck, and drive off. They are fully stable and self contained to leave sitting with out the truck.

Further, I have a daily driver (not a van) and I can leave it off the truck for gas milage during the week and hook it up on the weekend. READY TO GO! Keeping my truck for the time being, it will haul it around just fine, not to mention it's paid for...

For the weekend, taking the old lady out to Sand Rock for some easier climbing. Plan on giving a run on Champagne Jam late Sat.. Sunday morning making a trip over to the canyon and gonna rebolt a SURE ENOUGH CLASSIC, let me explain the de-lima.

The far left line at unshackled was originally bolted by Jerry Roberts, soon after he left the project for other lines as he believes some one had "comfortized" a hold. No drilling or chipping was done on this rig, just a little shaving of a razor sharp edge. This happens ALL the time, but who is gonna know? The guy bolting it shaves down some sharp rock to make it more user friendly. Agree or disagree, its gonna always happen.

So, here comes a friend of mine Bently Bracket who gets the FA on the rig. Sends it liked it, he moved on in Bently style. With the FA he decided to name it "deceiver 13c". Later in time Greg Kottkamp thought he would get the FA (not knowing the route was previously done) he did it adding a different more bouldery start and decided to call it "Back in the Day 14a".

Fast forward to now, and we have a great route in a great location with a wall full of classic lines and here lies "deceiver/back in the day" with two different grades, and rusty ass bolts. If you ask me what I'm going to do about it, I will tell you it will be rebolted soon. Weather or not I can climb the thing will be a different story, but it looks excellent, some of the best quality sand stone around, and like I said CLASSIC.

Im calling the rig "Deceiver" Bently did it first and weather or not the different start bumps it to 14a or not, I will refer to it as deceiver. The grade will soon enough be disclosed as it will be climbed on A LOT after the rebolting happens.

Down side, I have to do MORE work, less climbing. Also, add another project to do around here!

Follow the leader

A few months ago when I started this rig, I claimed to be different, I promised to never stop writing... I wouldn't follow the same path the other "bloggers" took. I was different. . . . 

Then I thought of all the hours I have been working, the trips out of town, the incredible it's not even summer yet spring time in alabama type temps of 95 with the index at 106!!! 

So to all that have been giving me shit about not updating, the time has come. I will be at the beach for the next 6 days, and I will be able to gather my thoughts in an extremely cold A/C room looking through my tinted glass down at the beach. 

I need rest, working in this heat for 50-60 hours a week and then trying to help the gym a few days a week, then leaving out Friday nights and or Saturday mornings heading to the Canyon for a hard working weekend. . . Only to be rushing home LATE Sunday night to make it to work by 6:30am.... blah,blah,blah I know broox

Good news that is sporadically coming to me;

Found out that I have bolts, drill, bits, and rock at my disposal. I then talked to the Southern Legend and wouldn't you know he already has this (soon to be classic) line at his house. He mentioned the word Stellar a few times, so it's gotta be good. 

I really want to start spending some time rebolting and bolting some lines. The longer I climb the more respect I have for the guys who go unknown bolting allot of these climbs we get to go enjoy. 

I recently made my mind up that I will be an owner of an Sprinter RV. It's gonna be a daily driver, (kinda sucks) but they are to expensive to own another car, even an ole junker. The plus side to things, I will USE it all the time, everything is ready to go. 23-30 MPG!!! A full on kitchen... sink, stove, microwave, coffe maker... the works. A bathroom with a shower, I probably wont keep this function, unless it is really nice. I don't plan on spending the money for a RV park as it will be self contained, meaning, generator, power inverter, and two of the best 12v a man can possess. Seating for 5 and comfy sleeping for 3. Room for 5! Super excited about being able to pull up and sleep. No unloading tubs, re arranging food bins, hooking up tanks un hooking, washing dishes out of another dish (rap your mind around that). Lazy, yes. I have slept in a tent once since I bought my camper last January. Keep you updated on the Sprinter situation. 

The only bad news to the sprinter is, I will not be making my 3 or 4 week climbing trip in July and early August. I need the cash for the car... Plenty of weekend trips around the southeast will do me just fine, not to mention FAR UNIT! The gym is almost open and open enough for me to hang out there most Tues and Thurs ... and Fridays... well shit allot. Psyched to get strong! 

Probably end it around here. Do my best to get back on track. It was easy when I started, I wasn't working, just in school and on the computer allot.

SUCCESS!!

Beg, borrow, and Steele was a huge success... Psyched to see that many people there and to raise over 1400 dollars. Big thanks to everyone who showed up! 

Pictures and more CRAZY stories to come....